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DECEMBER 2017 SOAP CHALLENGE CONTEST!

STRAIGHT LINES

This is the last Great Cakes Soap Making Contest.

We wish Amy all the best in her new adventures.

The name of this soap right now is Delightful. But after I add the fillagree heart on the front it will be called Heart Delight. I made this to be a valentines day soap. My plans are to etch a gold mica heart on the front of each bar. I will also be making more this was a small ‘trial’ batch. And of course, the Fragrance used was Love Spell.

I loved doing this technique. I’m going to have to make myself a tall and skinny mold just to do this again. It wrecked terrible havoc on my body though. Being that I have limited mobility I sat in the same spot throughout the whole process. Shame on me for forgetting to take my pain meds. In the process, I also spilled a half a cup of titanium dioxide (In water) all over the counter, floor and myself. I had started playing music and dancing around in my chair but ended up being a huge grouch. (Sorry dear)  I was planning on getting this done sooner but our heater started acting up and this ended up being very last minute. Then on top of that, the heater repairman came right in the middle of the day. Good thing for the heater, not so good for my soap making.

Doing the Math.

Yes, those are real M&Ms

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The wood mold is one that I made. I make most of all my log molds. As long as I am careful and get a good flat bottom when lining it with wax paper, this type of molds works best for me. I’ve tried lining my molds with other material and I just don’t like it. My kitchen counter is not level so I used a level with the mold to get my lines straight. I found the very corner of my counter was the most level. It worked out good for me as I had space to play my games, on the tablet, while the time passed. I used my mini scale and sadly the tare no longer works after the titanium dioxide catastrophy, so now I have to turn it off and back on each time. Titanium dioxide and I just don’t get along. I found that using my mini hand mixer worked great for mixing my tiny micro batches.

The darker red lines on the top and bottom were thicker because I figured if I needed to take some off,  I would have a little extra. I didn’t need to though.

I finally finished the lines around 1 am. The oven was heated at 400 for 10 min then turned off.  I cracked the door and left the soap in the oven overnight. I wish now that I had used a larger mold. I plan on making a larger batch soon for Valentines.

But right now I just want to sleep.

This contest was a lot of fun. I’m sorry to see Amy go, but we all wish her the best!

 

 

September 2017 Jelly Soap, Soap Challenge Club

Poinsettia Garden

 

Poinsettia’s come in all shapes and sizes. I looked over pictures but I still ended up making them to fit my mind’s eye. If they can not be recognized as a Poinsettia, I still see them as beautiful. I am very pleased with the way they turned out.

 

September’s soap challenge club technique was a 3D shower jelly soap. Our guest teacher was Helene Glemet of ChezHelene.  She showed us how to integrate cold process soap with melt and pour jelly soap.

I purchased a large container of Jelly Soap as I have plans on making more with it. While I was doing this project I also started on soap Jelly Soap Eyeballs for Halloween.  I thought the kids might really like them.

When I started out I found that rather than scoop out the Jelly soap and slices it, I just used my fingers to break it up. (Gloves on of course). I used a double boiler to start out with. Then later added a stainless pitcher.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I found that the pitcher worked the best. The heat also needed to be higher than I had started on.  I initially had it on the lowest of settings. It also needed to be covered all the time. As soon as you take it off heat it will start to harden. So you have to work fast.  The small (frothing) pitcher worked the best. It has a pour spout and the fact that it had a smaller opening at the top than the bottom. If you don’t touch it and just leave it to melt till even the bubbles are gone, then it is easy to pour. After a few bubble fails I was lucky to catch on quick and then I was able to pour with a few to no bubbles. As it settles into the molds it will become clearer.

They became jelly hard in no time at all, but I left them overnight.

The next day I laid all my tools, recipe and outlines. And prepared for the task ahead. I ended up not using any of the outlines. I knew I was going to do this challenge ahead of time, so I purchased all the tools I needed for less than $9 from an Aliexpress store. Of course, I did not use them all, but I will in the future I’m sure. (Wishful thinking)

 

The slow trace cold process formula I used:

4.4 oz Virgin Olive Oil

2.75 oz Coconut Oil

2.75 oz Palm Oil

1.1 oz Almond Oil

43.34 gram NaOH

130 gr Water

I then did the math to divide both the oils and the lye solution in 12 mini batches that I mixed one at a time as needed. This recipe worked great. I have always had an issue with fast tracing but this worked like a dream. Now for those who do not know me, I am a total clutz. Partly because of carpal tunnel.  My hands shake and I have a hard time gripping things. I have to be extra careful, but I still had to use my reach tool a lot and alcohol to clean everything I dropped.

One thing I was really happy with was mixing a great red color.  I used a mica from a company that is no longer around with red oxide. My first cup ended on the floor and looked like blood everywhere. Thankfully I have a great husband that helps with my mishaps.

On my practice mold, I wanted to make a Poppy flower. For being my first time I think it turned out pretty well. (Lower right corner)  The petals were not as opaque as I wanted. As soon as the Jelly soap comes back together after inserting the color a lot of the cold process oozed back out. My second attempt was a Poinsettia. (Upper Right corner).  As the colored CP soap went through trace I was able to get the effect I wanted.  I also had to insert the tool, push the color in and hold up the jelly for a few seconds to get more soap into the crevice. I still had to scoop out the CP soap that puddled, but I at least was able to get more to stay in the jelly soap base this way.

My last four attempts turned out the best. After getting the ‘hang’ of things and what I needed to do, I was able to find the right consistency to the CP and get the opague affect I wanted.

I then melted some M&P in my double boiler and added black Mica with a touch of white and red skin safe glitter.  I poured this over the back of each mold.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The next day I removed them from the molds and took the photos. Being the nature of the Jelly Soap the flash and overhead lights reflected in the tops. I had to play around with the flash, photo box, and overhead lights.

All and all I am very happy with how they turned out. I will be definitely making more of these in the future.

 

 

 

 

Jelly Soap Base Ingredient List: Glycerin, Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Chondrus Cris Powder (Carrageenan), Phenoxyethanol, Pentasodium Pentetate, Tetrasodium Etidronate

Scented with Natures Garden’s Reindeer Poo fragrance oil. Top “notes of apples and pears, followed by middle notes of eucalyptus, pine, and geranium; and well-balanced with base notes of vanilla, cedarwood, and patchouli.”  It is an amazing scent!

 

 

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Soap Vr. Soap

 

 

 

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Most of us are aware of the tried and true soap that graces many a shower and soap dish. I know my Mother drilled into my head that it was the only soap I should ever buy.  Known Antibacterial soap shall remain nameless. But here are the ingredients that I cut, copied and pasted directly from said soaps website.

Ingredients:

Active Ingredient – Triclocarban 0.30%

Inactive Ingredients: Soap [Sodium Tallowate* · Sodium Palmate* · Sodium Cocoate* · Sodium Palm Kernelate*] · Aqua (Water, Eau) · Talc · Coconut Acid* · Palm Acid* · Palm Kernel Acid* · Tallow Acid*· PEG-6 Methyl Ether · Parfum (Fragrance) · Glycerin · Sorbitol · Sodium Chloride · Pentasodium Pentetate · Tetrasodium Etidronate · CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide) · Butylphenyl Methylpropianol · Benzyl Alcohol · Citronellol · Coumarin · Eugenol · Hexyl Cinnamal · Linalool *Contains One Or More Of These Ingredients


Woo, wait a minute, what is the active ingredient? Triclocarban

“The U.S. Food and Drug Administration today issued a final rule establishing that over-the-counter (OTC) consumer antiseptic wash products containing certain active ingredients can no longer be marketed. Companies will no longer be able to market antibacterial washes with these ingredients because manufacturers did not demonstrate that the ingredients are both safe for long-term daily use and more effective than plain soap and water in preventing illness and the spread of certain infections.”    From <https://www.fda.gov/newsevents/newsroom/pressannouncements/ucm517478.htm>

Enough said let’s just bypass that and go to the ‘Inactive Ingredients’.


Sodium Tallowate (Tallow Acid): ….. is a true soap made by combining the fatty tissue (or tallow) of animals, such as cattle and sheep, with lye, typically sodium hydroxide [source: Cavitch]. When the fatty acid combines with the lye (the alkali in this instance), it saponifies or is turned into soap.     From <https://www.google.com/search?q=Sodium+Tallowate&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8>

Oh, my goodness, I never knew that DXXL had tallow in it, did you?


Sodium palmate is synthesized by reacting palm oil with sodium hydroxide. This process is called saponification. Saponification is a process that produces soap, usually from fats and lye. Saponification occurs when a fatty acid reacts with an alkali. Palm oil is the fatty acid and sodium hydroxide is the alkali.    From <https://www.google.com/search?q=Sodium+Tallowate&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=sodium+palmate>


Ok, time for a mini Saponification lesson.

1 + 1 = 0?    The Act of mixing Vegetable oil / Animal Oil + lye water  = 

No Lye Saponified!

 

If you want ‘Soap’ you must have lye.  Even the makers of DXXL use it. But, in the finished product, all the lye will have gone through a chemical process with the fatty acids. The End result is……………… no lye, just Soap.

Any good soap artist will test their soaps before selling or giving them away.


Ok, this is getting long, so let’s hurry along.

 

Sodium Palmate (Palm Acid): Palm oil

Sodium Cocoate (Coconut Acid): Saponified Coconut oil (Coconut oil and lye)

Sodium Palm Kernelate (Palm Kernel Acid): Saponified Palm kernel oil (Palm kernel oil and lye)

Aqua (Water): H2O Soap makers, commercial or otherwise, dissolve the lye in water before adding to the oils.

Talc or talcum is a clay mineral composed of hydrated magnesium silicate. It helps give the soap some slip.

PEG-6 Methyl Ether: Also known as Dimethicone. It is a polyethylene glycol ether of Methyl Alcohol

Parfum (Fragrance)

Glycerin · Sorbitol · Sodium Chloride · Pentasodium Pentetate · Tetrasodium Etidronate · CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide) · Butylphenyl Methylpropianol · Benzyl Alcohol · Citronellol · Coumarin · Eugenol · Hexyl Cinnamal · Linalool

Ok, I think you got the idea.


Soap Artisans have a tremendous number of goodies they can put in their soaps. There are hundreds of oils, butter’s, milk’s, clays, essential oils and fragrances to choose from. And it does not stop there. Herbs, waxes, salts, resins, exfoliants, infusions, hydrosols, fruits, eggs, coffee, beer, honey, silk, ……………………. I’m sure I forgot something.

My very first soap batch was very simple. The ingredients were; Water, Coconut oil, Palm Oil, Olive oil, and lye. No colors or scent. The end result was; Sodium Cocoate, Sodium Olivate, and Sodium Palmate. I will tell you though, you can’t make just one batch. As with any artist, their art is addictive.

A typical batch I make now has; Water Aqua, Coconut Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Olive Pomace Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil, Rice Bran Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil, Palm Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil, Lye (NaOH) Sodium Hydroxide, Castor Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Kokum Butter Indica Seed Garcinia Butter, Shea Butter Hydrogenated Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Palm Kernel Flakes Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Kernel Oil, Sodium Lactate, Kaolin White Clay, Sugar and Silk protein.

If you are looking for an antibacterial soap, Tea Tree Oil and some others make wonderful natural antibacterials. A wonderful article on antibacterial soap was written by Katie from Wellness Momma.

 

I learned a lot today about that unnamed soap that I used for 50 some years. I will never go back. Hand crafted soap, try It you’ll like it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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July 2017 Acrylic Pour Technique
Soap Challenge Club

MAKE SURE YOU COME BACK!  I WILL BE ADDING A VIDEO AS WELL!

 

 

Summer Splash Soap

Scented with ‘Lick me all over

“A wonderful exotic fragrance with base notes of raspberry, cantaloupe, and watermelon,

middle notes of jasmine and violet, and fresh top notes of grapefruit and kumquat.”

 

This was a very fun technique. And can be very messy. My husband helped me due to the fact he has more “Hot Air”  😉  As I use an Inhaler and sleep with a CPAP, I think I’ll try using canned air next time. LOL

I put masking tape on the straws to mark where we should hold the straws. I was hoping that this would keep us from getting the soap on our lips. I also put a thick layer of my lip balm on to help.  I still managed to get burning lips, only with the plastic straws though. Never with the stainless steel.  The stainless steel straws I got at Amazon were a great buy.  Stainless Steel Straws at Amazon

A wood Photo box I found at Michael’s makes a wonderful Slab mold. Using their 40% off coupon makes it an awesome value.  Michael’s Wooden Photo Box

As I have difficulty standing and sit while I make my soaps etc. I used a Lazy Susan under the mold so I could turn it and have more access. 

 

This was my second batch.  Made July 20th, cutting it close.

                                   Preparation

Half of the way through the pour I was abandoned (The dogs needed to go out). 

At the end, the soap was getting thicker and I was getting lightheaded and my air was running out.

 

        Goop! Cheese and Tomatoes on Blue tacos.

On July 21st I took the soap out of the mold. Because of the high water content, it was in no way ready to cut.

I put a fan on it hoping that would help dry it out enough to cut it.

         Quick Dry Try, Friday 21, 2017

Tick tick tick the clock in counting down. I would have waited another day or two to cut, but the deadline was fast approaching.

 

It was still on the sticky side, but I was able to get it in on time.

                                         “FINI”

 

Still a bit soft, but I was able to slice it. I have been in a debate with myself on whether or not to trim the edges or just leave them.  On these, I decided not to trim. Each Bar weighs around 6.5 oz/ 184 gr.

 

Make sure to come back for the Video!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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May 2017 Soap Challenge Club Entry

‘Bunny Hide and Seek’, May 2017 Soap Challenge Club Entry  w/ Recipe #4 Goat Milk Cold Process. Soap is approximately 1 week old.

This is the first time I have ever entered the Soap Challenge Club Contest. I am really pleased with the way it turned out.

I made one 1lb batch of soap and have a little over 4 oz. left.  I would have to say I was very lucky, it was very easy to work with.
Four recipes came with the Soap Challenge Clubs tutorial. I chose #4 which was a goat milk recipe. I made no changes to the directions other then I might have been over or short a gram or so. 😉 I used SoapMaker3 to put the recipe together.
Not only was this my very first Soap Challenge but also my first batch of goat milk soap. Thankfully my soap supplies are stocked and I had everything to start out with, even the goats milk. Goats milk soap was on my “To Do” list, so I got lucky.

The following notes might not make sense to you till you read the tutorial. If you go to the Soap Challenge Club website, they should have the tutorial on sale sometime in June 2017.

Here are some notes to myself for my next batch. One is that I will not add any Titanium Dioxide or make sure it is premixed with water before hand. I had a dispersal issue (TD does not like me, I know premix with water days before hand). Luckily I was able to slice it off when I used the bars. I also noticed soda ash on all sides of each bar, or maybe just the nasty TD acting up. After I took them out of the freezer I never got a ‘sweat’. Might have been due to the air conditioner running.
I did not mix my colors into the soap till I was ready to work with them. I did find some stubborn areas that did not want to take the coloring so most of the time I just picked them out. At first I started to make a cup shape with the dough and then add some powdered oxides and mica’s to the center then mix them in. After awhile I found that if I put the colors on the work board I was using that I could knead the powdered colors in better. I have carpel tunnel and expected to have some real issues, but I didn’t. I was extremely pleased over all. Being a klutz and almost knocking a 2 oz jar of brown oxide on the floor was the extent of my troubles. And the fun part is, that being soap, it cleans up real easy. I kept a spray bottle of water and one of alcohol next to me. I found out that simple water makes a great glue. I was going to mix a small portion of the soap with water to make a paste but found I didn’t need to.

The best investment I made just for this contest was Hobby Lobby’s 14″ x 14″ Tempered glass cutting mat. With the 40% coupon it was a steal and will get a lot of use. Without this mat I really doubt I would have had the ease I had.

Here were the Guidelines for the Soap Challenge Club May 2017 Contest:

“1. Your soap is made with cold process only featuring soap dough techniques with soap dough you made yourself. Your soap is a “bar” – whatever shape or size you would like that is embellished or embedded with your soap dough.
2. Your soap may have small non-soap embellishments.
3. You have submitted ONE entry in ONE of the two categories: juried or voted.
4. Your entry photo features soap(s) from ONE batch only with a neutral background. No props or people in it. Lighting and color adjustments may be made to best represent what the soap looks like in real life, but editing photos to alter the appearance of the soap is strictly prohibited. (There are no restrictions on other photos of your soap, the process, or other batches you made with this technique that are shown in your blog post or social media post that you link to your entry.)”   ~Quote from soapchallengeclub.com~

I loved doing this project and I can’t wait to do more soap clay items. After taking the photos I said, “Well here is one soap that will never get used”. I then hear my husband say “Why not?”

I will add a video as soon as I can figure out how to edit one again.

 

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